By Ruth Tobias, Globe Staff, 06/13/02
No matter how busy it gets, L'Uva's the kind of place you feel you have to yourself. Occupying a 19-century two-story building known as Sidehall Cottage, the bistro preserves the aura of a private residence with its relatively small and self-contained dining rooms, each aglow in a striking pale-sunset hue. The coziest of these is actually the bar, tucked away in a slope-ceilinged back room upstairs that must have been a bedroom once; you'll notice that couples seem to gravitate toward the close, softly lit quarters, inviting intimate conversation. Even the red-brick patio at L'Uva, though visible from the street, is set back far enough on the property to seem sheltered, especially as it's bordered by greenery strung with lights for agarden-soiree atmosphere. The menu, meanwhile, is itself divided into several sections, each speaking a different Romance language. (Chef Christopher Covelli, who co-owns L'Uva with Peter Garza, possesses an Italian pedigree, classical French training, and a second home in Spain.) A supple duck a l'orange shines among the French entrees in all its retro glamour; Covelli's signature pasta stands out from the Italian selection for its robust inclusion of both sweet and spicy sausage sauteed in white wine with rosemary - and offset by the uncommon addition of fresh grapes. Spanish and "American haute" options present themselves as well. But generally speaking, it's better to err on the side of simplicity when ordering at L'Uva, as with the still warm, chocolate-topped pate a choux in their pool of good old creme anglais. If it's sophistication you're after, make one of several grappas or premium tequilas your nightca